Stage 28 - Hot Sulphur Springs CO, 65mi (105km)

I learned from articles and other blogs that Westbound cyclists often have difficulty finding the way out of Frisco onto the bike path to Silverthorne. 

Tim & Debbie

Today, on a early chilly morning, I met Tim and Debbie, who helped me find my way on this path. They themselves were on a morning ride and we rode together the 6mi towards Silverthorne. 

For the benefit of cyclists coming behind me, here is the route: from 5^th Ave, turn right onto Main St, cross SR 9, and turn left onto bike path after the cemetery. At the far end of the dam wall, take the signed turn hard left down the steep and twisty path to Silverthorne. Ride under I-70 and exit bike path by turning right onto Wildernest Rd then left onto SR 9. 

Here are some impression of this morning:

A chilly morning

Bike path towards Silverthorne

I like that sign

This morning, the Route 9 was busy. I pedaled along the Blue River valley in a NNW direction at a average speed as the wind still was blowing into my face. The highway follows the east side of Green Mountain Reservoir. 

I turned off with the TransAm Trail to go along the even quieter west side towards Heeney. The Trail returned to Route 9, which by now had lost its shoulder and even acquired some traffic. At Kremmling, I finally left Route 9, which I had been on much of the time since Royal Gorge two days ago. I made a ninety-degree right turn here and headed, most unusually, eastwards on US 40. Now the wind was on my favor and the 17mi ride to Hot Sulphur was a blast! 

I cycled over the Colorado River and after it I followed the river upstream towards its headwaters in the Rockies. Road, railway and river occupied a broad valley, which, approaching Hot Sulphur Springs, squeezed together through Byers Canyon. Tomorrow begins with a long climb up to a second crossing of the Continental Divide.

Stage 27 - Frisco CO, 77mi (124km)

Last night I was so knackered! After dinner I went to bed at 8.20PM and slept until this morning 7AM. It was a chilly and cold night but with the sunrise it got warmer soon. 

Rita preparing my breakfast

I had a wonderful breakfast at Rita’s, she specially opened this morning at 8AM for me as I did not want to leave to late in order to make the big clim, Hoosier Pass, today. 

I felt strong this morning and coped very well with the lower levels of oxygen in the air. After coasting back down to rejoin Route 9, I began the climb to Currant Creek Pass, 9’403 feet (2,866m above sea level), the first and lowest of the three passes I have to cross in the Colorado Rockies. The biggie was to climed later this afternoon. However, the wind today made my riding life very hard, a ferocious wind again with 35 to 40mph. The ride had become very difficult and at some point dangerous. It took me 3.5 hours for the 30mi to get to Hartsel. I could not even enjoy the descent on the far side and the road undulating through an empty landscape made it even harder. At Hartsel I stopped for a blueberry pie and coffee and continued to Fairplay, climbing gradually through a high grassland basin watered by the Middle Fork South Platte River. 

 

The first 6mi (8km) was on an off-road bike path that took me to Alma, the highest incorporated town with permanent residents in North America (elevation 10'577 feet + 3'224 m). Back on Route 9, I headed for Hoosier Pass. Traffic was light. Weather conditions were overcast, cold and snowy; the wind was SE which means it had turned to my favor in the meantime. The ascent was gradual at first. Then, with another 4mi (6km) to go, it steepened. It was no steeper than climbs in the Appalachians and I did not need to use my lowest or second lowest gear. Today I just spun the pedals and in no time I was at the top. At 11’539 feet (3,517m) above sea level, Hoosier Pass is the highest point on the TransAm Trail. I was elated to have reached it. Ken pulled off at the parking lot to have a walk with his dog. I asked him to take my photo in front of the sign. 

Eleven miles (17km) of downhill brought me to Breckenridge, a very different town from most of those I have passed through. This one is doing well economically. It caters for affluent tourists enjoying active holidays in the great outdoors. Its main street is filled with outfitters. The big name brands are there; so are plenty of cafes, boutiques, and other retailers. I took the 10mi high quality off-road bike path to Frisco, still descending. Frisco is a similar sort of place to Breckenridge but on a smaller, more human scale. Like Breckenridge, the high mountains surrounding it provide a magnificent backdrop. Cyclists ride up and down the main street, which is full of shops and pedestrian crossings. 

Stage 26 - Guffey CO, 83mi (134km)

The way out of Pueblo ran through leafy suburbs and the city park. I then turned on to Route 45 and US 50. The wind was a vigorous northerly that developed to blow from NNE, which meant a slight tale wind. 

It was 43mi (69km) to Cañon City before the climbing started. The route started on US 50 and began to climb straight away. It took me an hour to reach the Royal Gorge commercial area. Here the Trail turned off to the right on Route 9 heading north-west. The ride to Guffey, my final destination, was only 32mi (51km), I found it hard! My elevation gain today was 6'453 feet (1’967m) – I am knackered…



There were occasional flat and even downhill sections but mostly it was uphill, sometimes steeply, sometimes more gradually. I used lower gears than I would have done on comparable slopes earlier in the ride. 

At Guffey, 1.5mi off the route, I am 8’658feet (2’639m) above sea level. I am feeling the altitude and hope the overnight stop I am making here will help my body adapt to it. Guffey is the most unusual staging point on the TransAm Trail. It is quirky, not to say eccentric. I am staying in the most luxurious of the Rustic Cabins, the only one with electricity.






Like the others it has no running water. There is a shower room a few steps away and an 'outhouse' (dunny). However, due to the cold weather in the last days the shower isn’t working yet and I washed myself way back like in the 18^th Century. The place has been run by a character called Bill since the Bikecentennial in 1976. 

He is a very friendly guy and he, together with his pals, were waiting for me, sitting on his golf cart, upon my arrival. He offered me two beers and we began to chat with each other as we would have known each other for a long time. I am very glad to be here – it was worth each mile of climbing today.

My cabin

GMC 1937

The Garage and the nearby City Hall contain an extraordinary collection of curiosities. Outside, there is an eclectic collection of hand-built shacks in the midst of broken-down cars, abandoned bath tubs, old bedsteads, wheelbarrows, and bizarre sculptures, which often make use of skeletons. Although Guffey appears to have a tiny population, it supports a school, library, post office, and three places that serve meals. 

I had ldinner at Freshwather Saloon.

Stage 25 - Pueblo CO, 111mi (179km)

The forecast for today was for a maximum temperature in the mid 90’s and winds from the NNE. I left the Motel this morning at 6AM as I did not know what to expect in terms of the winds, although  they were supposed to be on my favour. I didn't have any difficulty waking up that early because my body clock was still adapted to the old time zone. The distance to Pueblo was 111mi  (179km). 

The landscape was empty. Scarcely a tree or a building or a cow could be seen. The road was not completely straight, as in Kansas, but wandered about, heading anywhere between south and west, the force of the tailwind varying accordingly. The road surface in Colorado is rougher than in the previous states, full of scars and pits and regular jolts. Traffic was almost non-existent and I tended to cycle in the lane, where the surface was better, rather than on the shoulder. In Kansas, towns were usually recognizable by their water tower at a distance of approx.. 5mi (8km), giving a target to be aimed for. Today, I saw the grain elevator at Sugar City when I was still 8mi (12km) away. Even with the pleasant tale wind pushing me it felt long. I knew the cafe was open and I was starving as I did not have much for breakfast. There I had another of those delicious breakfast: coffee, hash browns and 2 eggs over easy. After I continued my ride to Pueblo again coasting with the help of a grateful tale wind coming from E. 

Almost immediately after leaving Ordway, the hazy line of the Rocky Mountains became visible in the distance. Pueblo (pop. 106,000) is the largest city on the TransAm Trail and is its symbolic midpoint. Not only is it roughly halfway along the Trail, it is the place of transition between the plains and the mountains. I am reaching it on the 25^th day of my ride. Pueblo is at the end of my sixth map section, which I began at Alexander on the day I left Larned. All its 292mi (470km) were on Route 96. I got through it quickly as a result of cycling double stages on three days and the help of Lori and Monty yesterday. Alexander was at 2'047feet (624m) above sea level; Pueblo is at 4'698 feet (1'432m) elevation. Tomorrow,  I will begin climbing into the Rocky Mountains. When I arrived in Pueblo, I pulled up at the Great Divide bicycle shop, which is just 3 blocks from the Motel I am staying. I wanted my gears, chain and pedals having checked and reset. The guys at the bicycle shop were very flexible and helpful and within 30 minutes it was done. I feel very confident now to have my bike tuned up for the big Mountains. Here are some facts and figures of today’s ride:

Distance: 111mi (179km)

Time: 7 hours

Avg. Speed: 16mph (26km/h)

Avg. Temperature: 77F (25)C

Max Temperature: 102F (39C)

Min Temperature: 52F (11C)